One of my favorite roads in all of Ireland is probably the curviest and trickiest of those for a first time driver. However the rewards are huge and well worth the nail biting time for the driver or backseat driver. This road between Allihies and Eyeries hugs the coast and gives jaw-dropping views across Coulagh Bay to Kerry. One of the delightful differences of this drive over the Ring of Kerry is the lack of the large tourist buses. The Ring of Beara is both quaint, quiet and all that you are hoping for in a trip to Ireland. I may be just a slight bit partial as this is where my ancestors came from and I can see their faces in the locals and hear their voices in the stories that are told.
As you start winding your way on this gorgeous drive you will see so many stunning views. Just remember to stay on your side (that would be the left) of the road as you lose yourself in the views. Drive it slow and take your time. Make sure to notice pullovers as these allow you to let locals and others to get by so you can travel slow and still see everything there is to take in on this amazing adventure. On this stretch you will get glimpses of Dursey Island, along with the bull, the cow and the calf, three small islands off the end of the peninsula. Take time to get out and walk as you will see so much more and feel the beautiful sea breezes on your face.
As you take a steep ascent along this winding road you will come to the peak of the mountain. From here I’d suggest you pullover just to see what you can see…okay I always have to get a picture from this spot as well. On a beautiful clear day you can see the Iveragh peninsulas, better known as the Ring of Kerry while looking to the north. As you are looking across the countryside you will also want to noticed the amazing weathered fence posts and the way they lead your eye through the landscapes. These gray “soldiers” appear to guard the roadsides and help you get safely along your way.
As you pass over the mountain you will see that the road winds like a river as it heads towards a pink farmhouse and outbuildings. Like threading a needle you will pass between the house and the outbuildings so be sure to slow to a snails pace and wave if the farm lady happens to be hanging her laundry out to dry. The beauty of this setting is absolute storybook like.
Next on the R575 adventure is the quick hike up to the Mass Rock located on the East side of this beautiful road. As you take the short hike up the mountainside you will feel the intense history of this place which goes back to Penal Law times. Due to the laws of the time period it is completely hidden from the roadway. Once you arrive at the Mass Rock you realize just how hidden it is from the road and the protection that it would have provided from persecution.
Upon leaving the Mass Rock you will climb up yet another mountain to reveal yet another beautiful valley on the other side. While winding down the narrow lane of the reverse side I’d suggest you stop in at the Urhan Inn for a pint. There have a wonderful array of outside seating on a beautiful day and a warm pub atmosphere inside on a gray one. Either way you are sure to find a great place for a pause!
From here simply enjoy the last few kilometers winding your way through the countryside to Eyeries. This colorful village is sure to not disappoint with all of its brightly colored buildings. I’d suggest a relaxing stop at Cindy’s Gem Cafe for a coffee or tea and a treat or a pint at Causkey’s on the back patio.
Here’s to a drive with an adventure around each of its many curves along the Wild Atlantic Way’s coastline…SLAINTE!
